Two years ago, I made my escape from the cubicle to go wander the world. At the age of 45, my partner and I quit our jobs, sold most of our stuff – loaded up the cat and dog and drove to Mexico!
Without a doubt, it is the best thing I’ve ever done. And year two was even better than the first. Why? Because everything takes practice, even retirement!
Here’s a look back at a second year of freedom. Hopefully, it inspires, entertains, perhaps even educates?
It starts on a beach in Mexico…
Beautiful Baja
La Paz, Baja California Sur is a quiet town where the desert meets the Gulf of California.
Beautiful bays dot the coastline. Until La Paz, I had never been an ocean person. But, we had purchased two stand-up paddleboards in hopes of changing that.
And boy, did it ever! Floating over the turqoise blue water became my happy place. Sting rays gliding along the ocean floor, schools of fish moving like loose mercury, and awkwardly puttering puffer fish – made me a paddle addict!
You would think one could get bored, going out in the same bays over and over again. But the ocean and beaches are ever changing! Tides move things around, and you never know quite who would be passing through. A pod of dolphins? Some toothy triggerfish? Maybe even a whale shark!
Besides the beaches and ocean, Baja Sur also has to-die-for aguachile, good craft beer, and a friendly community. From experience in Oaxaca, we learned that Facebook groups are a good way to meet people in Mexico. So, we joined an expat group that had monthly meet-ups.
In my non-retired life, I would never do anything like this. But when you’re new in a town, and don’t have time to develop relationships more organically, these groups can be a great shortcut to a social life. It doesn’t have to be your most ideal set of forever friends. But, we found that it is important to get out and mingle, even when traveling.
La Paz, in general, has a great scene of expats from around the world, and really curious locals that don’t mind hanging out, too. Through the Facebook group, we connected with people quickly, found some real kindred spirits, and shared lots of good times.
Perhaps one reason we made friends so fast was because we had rented a place with a hot tub, and liberally passed out invites! Within the first couple of weeks, we had representatives from these countries over for a soak: Norway, Mexico, Germany, Korea and, of course, the US.
Bringing home to us
We had also rented this very nice, two bedroom place in paradise, in an attempt to lure friends and family to come visit. Our previous year in early retirement showed us we have to do more to maintain connections. So, we schemed to bring home to us.
Our plan worked!
6 different groups of people rotated through the second bedroom in the five months we were there. Taking friends and family out on the paddle boards to experience the white sand beaches, crystal clear water and dazzling marine life brought us so much joy! We made lasting memories and strengthened bonds.
Between all the visitors from home, and friends we made in La Paz, we were never bored or lacking for socialization. This was a great improvement over our first year of retirement, where, for various reasons, we were sometimes a bit homesick or lonely. Year two – we made sure to change that!
I could easily have stayed forever in La Paz. But the point of taking early retirement was to go out and explore! And there is still much of the world to experience.
Saying goodbye
Leaving La Paz was difficult. We would say goodbye to some good friends and the amazing Baja lifestyle. We would also be leaving without our dear old cat, Mackie. At 17, his body gave out and we had to let him go.
We had already lost our old dog the previous year. It was always the plan to dwindle down from our high of 3 dogs, 4 birds, 2 fish and Mackie, down to no pets, at some point. But becoming petless was a colossal shift. For the childless, like me, I can only guess it’s what “empty nesters” experience. Bitter-sweet.
But now, we could travel a little faster and lighter with no pets. Only a heavy heart to weigh me down!
So, we hit the road. We did some beach camping along the Bahia Conception. (Which Mackie would not have enjoyed.) Ensenada and Valle de Guadalupe, the wine capital of Mexico, were stops we enjoyed along the way back up the Baja, as well.
Eventually, we did have to say goodbye to Mexico, and crossed the border back into the US. Yes, the roads are better and bathrooms are easier to find, but Mexico is my second home now. I love and appreciate her, flaws and all. And miss her more everytime I leave!
First loves
What could lure me away from my love of the ocean? My first love, backpacking!
Hiking and backpacking were the inspiration for my partner and I to pursue financial independence in the first place! It all started while hovering over a toilet in the Peruvian Andes.
I started doing the math: Places we wanted to go, divided by the number of days off the corporate overlords allowed per year….then, factoring in my bad knees, janky back, and general mortality…well, that equation just didn’t work!
Work days needed to decrease. And the backpacking trips in far flung places needed to happen while I was still physically capable.
So, it was time to get in some backpacking. We made our way back to the US Mountain West, home to some of the best in the world.
First stop, some Spring time hiking in Arizona.
Paria Canyon
Many months ahead, and with no small effort, we snagged coveted spots to hike Paria canyon in Northern Arizona. Sitting just above the grand canyon, its the world’s largest slot canyon, and they only let in 20 campers a day.
All the effort was worth it! The canyon is pristine, miraculous and one of the most unique places we have ever been. The canyon walls, carved by ancient water show the artistic mastery of their creator.
It was a 3 day thru hike, all very flat and easy. It was a nice way to break ourselves back into the routine of walking for hours with a heavy pack. Just like riding a bike, apparently, it all came right back.
Hiking shoes, dehydrated meals and peeing outside…I could hardly remember the days of beach bumming.
Home maintenance
After decompressing in Paria Canyon, we returned to our home base in Northern New Mexico. It was time to do some work on our rental properties and tend to our friends and family.
Relationships need maintenance, too! And in person is really the only way to do that.
Swooping in for an event is good, but its the mundane, day to day, that cements relationships. Going for a run with someone, grabbing pizza and watching a game. That’s where the small talk happens that lets you know what’s really going on with people.
In year two, we’ve learned that 3 to 4 months, non-consecutive, is ideal for maintaining strong connection. Whereas, we had planned for a more economically efficient 1 to 2. Sometimes efficiency isn’t all its cracked up to be.
As far as properties, we have a furnished month-to-month rental and 3 long term units. The rentals help support our early retirement monetarily. More importantly, the furnished rental provides us somewhere to stay when we’re in town.
Honestly, having it to come back to has been indispensable to our early retirement. We like to have a place that is “ours,” where we feel totally comfortable and can relax.
Staying with friends or family doesn’t fit that bill.
So, from the comfort of our home base, we spent time hanging out with friends, doing home owner chores, eating all the foods and soaking in all the things that we had missed.
Being there is like hitting the “refresh” button. Something has always changed, at least a little, while we’re gone. Someone’s had a relationship status update, a promotion, an injury – or a new restaurant opened and an old favorite closed. We learned that you have to be prepared to take-in and deal with all the shifts.
Like the shift to being petless…
Pet fix
Since losing my furbaby, Mackie, I was missing having animal energy in my life. I needed a pet fix.
Luckily, the universe has a way of providing! During our first year of early retirement, 3 newborn puppies were dropped on our doorstep in Mazatlan. You can read the whole story here.
The short version is, they grew up and became US citizens! One, the little boy named Chunk, went to live on the happiest place on earth. No, not Disneyland…with my mom on her farm.
Being back home and petless, my mom tricked me into taking Chunk for a while. She said she needed help getting him “fixed,” as they say.
Claiming she couldn’t manage him through the surgery, because she has other pets, and is “an old lady” and what not, she asked for help. Yeah right! She is as spry as an alley cat and has managed many an animal through similar circumstances.
But, I pretended I was doing her a favor, not serving my selfish need for puppy time, and went and picked up Chunk.
We had him for six weeks. It turned into something like a doggy summer camp! We hit the dog park, had puppy play dates, went camping and canoeing. He even went to tu-tu Tuesday night at our favorite dog friendly bar! (After he had recovered from his surgery, of course.)
He got fixed, and I got my fix!
But the time came to return my “brother-son” to my mom. 🙁
The mountains were calling! We were set to hit the road for a month long road trip in our trusty truck to get in more backpacking.
Boondocking, backpacking & brews
Before we quit work, we turned our ’08 Toyota Tacoma with a shell, into a car camping beast. We call her Paula.
She gets us down the gnarliest of dirt roads, and then turns into our little luxury tiny home. We have a fridge, solar power and an almost full sized bed. And she patiently waits at trailheads while we are off backpacking.
Having our truck camper is an affordable way to get around and visit places that otherwise would be beyond our early retirement budget. Its size means it doesn’t eat up too much fuel and can still easily maneuver around cities. And boondocking is sure cheaper than hotels.
This year, we undertook our longest trip yet: 31 days! Most were spent in Northern California, hitting a little Nevada and Utah along the way.
And what goes well with boondocking and backpacing? Breweries!
While traveling, we’ve developed the habit of seeking out breweries. Not only do we like craft beers, but we find the local brewery to have friendly people who are open to chat, decent food, and often free entertainment such as live music or trivia.
In our 31 day trip, we spent 11 nights backpacking, 15 nights boondocking and were able to hit 20 breweries! We did use some credit card points to score a few nights in hotels along the way, when we needed a serious shower. Or, when we attended the epic Hops in Humboldt beer fest!
All in, the month long vacation cost us $3300. Including beer! Most people can’t live in the US on that for a month, much less go on vacation in California.
Yep, we’re YouTubers now
On this trip, we also started a fun hobby – videoing our adventures! If you want to see all the fun in moving picture, check it out below. (Like and subscribe :))
Mammoth Lakes
We jumped into California with a 5 night backpacking trip, lake hopping around Mammoth. This was the most nights out to date! The gorgeous natural hot spring along the way helped pass the time.
Emigrant Wilderness
I didn’t know emigrant was a word – but now I’m in love with the wilderness so named. We had a great time exploring this lesser visited part of California. Unfortunately, we had to cut it a night short, thanks to an uninvited visitor making a home in the truck.
Lost Coast
Back to the ocean! Beach camping along the Lost Coast is special. Not only because you have to grab one of the 60 permits waaaaay in advance, but it has very particular features. Like having to wait for low tide to pass certain areas and dodge elephant seals in mating season.
Boondocking blues
This was actually our third big trip in Paula – but the longest, in distance and time. We’ve learned a thing or two from our experiences. This year, we added some tech to make truckbed living better. Namely, navigation, backup camera, and solar panels.
Cost was under $500 and money well spent. Frankly, not having my partner rely on me for directions…priceless!
Of course, it was not without problems. During a downpour, Paula developed a leaky window seal – in the middle of the night, of course.
But, we sprung into action. My partner braved the rain and lashed a tarp over the truck, stopping the leak. Meanwhile, I worked to mop up the puddle that had overtaken our bed.
One bad night’s sleep didn’t ruin the trip, or dissuade us from truck bed living. Next day, we slapped some silicone on over the leak, dried out the cushions and were on the road again.
And I’d still take Paula in the wilderness over a $500 a night hotel in, say, Las Vegas, anytime!
Mexico calls
After getting our fill of the triple “B”s (Boondocking, Backpacking & Breweries) and spending some more time at home, we were ready to get back to our beloved Mexico. When the colorful aspen leaves start hitting the ground, its about time for us to head south.
Mexico truly feels like a second home, after spending 9 months of our first year of retirement there. But there is still so much of it to explore. So, we headed out to places we had not yet been.
We decided to check out the Central Mountain region. With only one backpack each, we got dropped off on a bridge in El Paso, Texas and walked across the border to Ciudad Juarez. Straight to the airport we went, catching a flight that cost $500 less than its US counterpart.
First stop, Mexico City! The capital did not disappoint. While we only spent a few days in the Roma Norte neighborhood, I was smitten: Chapultapek park, the food, and cute dogs everywhere. I don’t know if I could live there forever, but its definitely on the “spend more time” list.
But we had places to go and people to meet. When planning to return to Mexico, we reached out to friends in La Paz. As luck would have it, they already had a trip planned to some Central Mountain towns and invited us to join them!
We quickly tweaked our plans to be able to meet them in San Miguel de Allende and tag along to Guanajuato. The pilgrimage was to experience the best of the best Mexican Dia de Los Muertos celebrations. Its like being in Rio for Carnival.
San Miguel, know for its artistic sensibilities was adorned in flowers and skulls, as spectacularly as you would imagine. And the decorating didn’t stop! All day, people were adding more flowers, more flags, new alters would pop up. Overnight, elves seemed to be out contributing,too. Each morning, we’d walk out the door to see decorations taken to new heights!
Guanajuato, also did not disappoint. The town itself is already extreme, climbing and winding its way up unforgiving mountain sides. Its know for rebellion, playing an important role in the battle for Mexican Independence. Pípila, a courageous warrior and hometown hero, watches over the city in statue form high atop one of its steep hills.
For the main Dia de Los Muertos celebration, the cobblestone street in front of the Cathedral is shut down, in order to accommodate the creation of elaborate murals made of sand, seeds and petals. Painstakingly planned, executed lovingly – the works of art are destroyed near midnight in a mind melting, ecstatic parade.
Impermanence.
The town then parties until the wee hours. Us among them, feeling the liberation of facing mortality….and cheap drinks.
Experiencing Dia de Los Muertos, which is actually several days long, in these cities was nothing short of spectacular. A true bucket list item! It was one of the most visceral, memorable experiences of my life. I met death there – she is beautiful, fierce and humbling.
It was great to connect with Mexican friends, and share such an amazing experience with them. But with no time to recuperate from the wild times in Guanajuato, we had to jump on a bus and head to our longterm destination, Puebla.
Why Puebla?
Why Puebla? We were asked that countless times by Americans and Mexicans alike. Its not exactly known to be a hot spot for US tourism or a draw for expats. Well, that was exactly why.
Also, there’s a volcano! The idea of living at the foot of an active volcano sounded freaking awesome! Popocatepetl is its name, and he watches over his sleepy love, the dormant Iztaccihuatl.
Popo, as its thankfully shortened to for non-native speakers like me, was very active while we were there! And even though it distressed my nasal passages, I could not get enough of watching him. We had a great view from the roof of our apartment.
“Sunset time!” I’d yell – and we grab a beverage and sprint up there.
Our time in Puebla flew by, and we found the city to be extremely comfortable and homey. We stayed close to the historic center. Every day we walked the cobblestone streets taking in the beautiful colonial architecture, stopped in a mercado or restaurant for an affordable bite to eat or a beer.
We also enjoyed the river walk, many parks, and took in cultural sites, like the Palafoxiana library and tunnels under the city.
We were almost always the only expats everywhere we went. Not many people spoke English, so we were forced to use our Spanish – and shockingly were able to survive. We even learned a thing or two and gained confidence.
Puebla also has lots of things to do just outside of town. We climbed a nearby dormant volcano, La Malinche, and spent a lovely night in the nearby “pueblo magico” of Cholula. No, the hot sauce isn’t made there. But it does have the largest pyramid in the world, and some pretty fun breweries, as well!
Unfortunately, time is a limited resource and we have more places to explore. So, after 6 weeks in Puebla, we boarded a plane bound for the US.
We had to pop over to Florida for a family member’s college graduation. Then, over to New Mexico, to swap our small backpacks for all our camping gear! And head to….
The end of the World
As I write this, I’m in Ushuaia, Argentina, which labels itself as “Fin del Mundo” or the End of the World. In fact, its the southern most city in Argentina, a jumping off point for Antarctica.
Shortly before Christmas, we boarded a plane for Santiago, Chile, and have worked our way down the Patagonia region.
Our first stop was Torres Del Paine National Park, home to screensaver, drool worthy Patagonian landscapes. Because we didn’t plan a year+ in advance, we weren’t able to line up camping on the very popular O and W treks.
So, we rented a dome! Dome, sweet dome!
These rustic accommodations are available from the National Park, and a little difficult to book. But definitely worth it! They’re a big step-up from the tent camping that is available, and far more affordable than the hotels within the park.
Torres del Paine in summer is very windy and rainy. It was nice to get some respite from the elements, and still be able to day hike to a lot of places on the W trek.
We saw guanacos (similar to llamas), rheas (a lot like emus), condors, and all sorts of other funny looking birds that only exist in Patagonia. And, I developed a new obsession – glaciers! Hiking up to see Grey Glacier, I fell in love. The sheer magnitude of the ice flow was gobsmacking.
Luckily, Patagonia still has ice!
But, it was time to leave Torres del Paine and go do some backpacking.
Backpacking Patagonia
We headed to Puerto Williams, which claims to be the southern most city not only in Chile, but the world. There we got our first Patagonia backpacking trip in – 3 nights hiking around Los Dienties, “the teeth,” mountain range. It was quite the intro.
Gale force winds, rain, mud, and steep, steep, steep! Also, gorgeous lakes, interesting flora and fauna – mostly birds. But no bears! Backpacking in the US, you always have to consider that yogi might want to steal your picnic basket.
Next, we hopped across the border to Argentina. With a brief stop over in El Calafate, we headed to Ushuaia, to explore the Tierria Del Fuego National Park and wilderness.
We just returned from a 3 night backpacking trip – the hardest of my life! Extreme is the only word that comes to mind. (Follow us on YouTube to see the video!)
At times, I felt like I was on another planet. The very hard miles were rewarding, though. It was gorgeous, and truly remote! We only saw a handful of people.
And we’re just getting started! We have 2 more months planned in Patagonia. Then off to Bolivia and Colombia.
If all goes as planned, we will have backpacked more than we ever have in any year, before summer even starts in the US. We have successfully changed that troublesome math equation from earlier!
Longterm lifestyle lessons
Although we had traveled a good bit before leaving our jobs, we had a lot to learn about a longterm travel lifestyle. And had we jumped into the amount and type of travel we’re doing now, straight from the cubicle, we might have failed.
First of all, I would have over-packed even more than I inevitably do. It seems there’s always at least one article of clothing I drag along for months, and never need. But, I’m much better!
For example, when we first rolled into Mexico two years ago, we had an entire bag dedicated to shoes. This trip, two pairs each – hiking boots and flip flops. Now, I know exactly what I have and where it is, at all times. And I can be packed and ready to go in under a half hour.
We’ve also learned to handle, let’s call them, “less-than-ideal” living situations. Two years ago, I thought I couldn’t live without a blender, a vegetable steamer, or a couch. Turns out, I can. (Mostly.)
Not that I don’t still have the occasional rage moment in an Airbnb or hostel. You know, those “what the *&%$ were they thinking?” moments when something is designed so badly it feels like a personal insult!
But I’ve gotten better at rolling with it. Maybe because I’ve seen how quickly the time flies and we’reoff to the next place. Or, since it isn’t my one and only vacation for the year, it’s not ruining much. Anyway, I find I’m much less picky about accommdations these days.
And, we do pack a few comfort items that might seem silly to others. Such as, my hydro flask cup and travel tea kettle. Knowing I have those two things, I can get through a lot!
Of course, no matter how experienced we get, travel always finds a way to humble us. Grocery shopping, doing laundry, buying bus tickets – simple, everyday things, become brand-new mind bending puzzles in each new place. While we are more prepared for the challenges, we still frequently make total asses of ourselves trying to figure them out.
But hey, that’s all part of the adventure!
There are areas we still struggle, especially with faster paced travel. Its difficult to keep a routine around much of anything, but food and exercise are particularly hard. We will forever be struggling to eat well on travel days! And our exercise regime has bipolar swings.
Crunching the numbers
Freedom isn’t free, right? But it’s also not as expensive as you might think. This past year of full-time adventure cost us $56,500. That covered everything: housing, food, flights, insurance, taxes, and miscellaneous nomad expenses. And thanks to some well-played credit card points, we scored five free hotel nights and flights to Chile.
Again, this was to spend 3 months in a beach paradise, a month long tour of Northern California, and 2 months in the expensive and hard to get to Patagonia region. We weren’t sitting at home eating rice and beans. (Although, rice and beans is one of my favorite meals!)
It was a little over the budget we set for ourselves for the year. But it wasn’t enough to break our retirement dreams. Are we running back to the cubicle? Not even close.
Over the year, my relationship with money has improved, as well. In our first year, every dollar spent felt like a crisis! I scrutinized every expense, obsessed over efficiency, and second-guessed every purchase.
Instead of seeing my nest egg as something to hoard and control, I’m trying to embrace it as a tool that is to be used. Letting go, I have seen that our expenses and income ebb and flow – and the world doesn’t end. And I feel less guilty using the money I worked so hard to save.
This lifestyle doesn’t lend itself to strict monthly budgets. But we do have guardrails. And we do our best to be frugal and spend intentionally, in line with our values: outdoors, experience, connection.
I’ve also come to appreciate that we have a lot of control over our expenses, more than most people. Having location freedom, we could spend more of the year in a very inexpensive place, if need be.
Or, take some risk from time to time and jet off to expensive Patagonia and see glaciers while they still exist!
Seeing the levers of geoarbitrage in action has made me more comfortable with our early retirement decision.
As for what we got for our money, time and effort? 4 countries. 12 states. 18 cities. We backpacked 20 nights, car camped 30, and according to my step tracker, I averaged 13,000 steps per day. Many meaningful miles.
In the end, the real return on investment wasn’t in numbers, but in moments. Paddleboarding with stingrays, hiking through canyons, clinking beers with friends. And getting to do it all with my amazing partner. I don’t know about beating the S&P, but I’m happy with that ROI.
Two years and counting
Two years ago, I walked away from the cubicle, and hit the road with a dream of freedom and adventure. The dream is come to life, a story unfolding in real time. So far, each chapter has gotten better.
From the bays of Baja to the comforts of home, from cracking beers in California’s best breweries to Patagonian mountain passes, this year was richer, deeper, and filled with more connection than the last.
This story is filled with learning and growing, and a theme has emerged: Freedom isn’t about quitting a job, it’s about designing a life that feels expansive, joyful, and uniquely mine.
So, entering my third year of early retirement, there is no going back – only looking forward! Another year of non-linear paths and unknowns. Because if two years have taught me anything, it’s that the best adventures begin with a little curiosity, a lot of courage and a willingness to get a little lost.
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